Some of my favorite cakes are flourless, but there is not a single eggless one in my repertoire! Eggs are essential for the texture I desire.The egg whites offer aeration, and the egg yolks, which contain lecithin, improve emulsification, creaminess, and flavor.Here is the most important and useful information I have to offer about baking with eggs.

I make cakes with whole eggs, all yolks, or all whites, but recently, I’ve started separating the eggs for whole egg cakes, weighing the yolks and whites, and then recombining them.This is due to the shrinking of the yolks.I noticed this when making a génoise, which uses whole eggs.

Suddenly, the texture of the cake was coarse! When I added an extra yolk, the texture was once again velvety fine.Many other bakers have noticed the shrinking of egg yolks as well.It wasn’t until I spoke to a woman who raised hens for eggs that I discovered the reason.

She said that in the industry, they are using younger hens, whose eggs have smaller yolks.  Smaller yolks mean larger whites, which is also distressing to me because I consider one of my most important contributions to baking to be how to prevent egg whites from being overbeaten, and this is dependent upon the right ratio of whites to cream of tartar (a by-product of the wine industry).Most recipes warn when beating whites not to overbe

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